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Newsletter Disclaimer: The newsletter member articles are a lot like member posts in the forum. The thoughts of the newsletter authors do not necessarily reflect the thoughts of 21ace.com. If you have an issue with a specific article please take it up with the author of the article. February 2006 NewsletterEditorial Hello, for the second time. We have received good reactions about the first issue and we hope we will continue to bring you good articles. First of all we would like to congratulate Andre (forum handle y2x10) for winning the Newsletter Subscription Raffle Prize! We hope you'll enjoy the prize. We'd also like to thank MJM Magic, Magic Pro Shop and PokerShopping for donating prizes for our latest card tricks contest. Check out the http://www.21ace.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4282 thread for more info on the contest. And now something for you. 5StarDeal is offering 10% OFF the entire inventory* from now until February 14th, 2006. Visit our http://www.21ace.com/Discount-Poker-Chips.html page for the code and the link! We hope you'll enjoy the reading
:-) The Art of Cheating I think we all know the situation. That one guy at the table just keeps hitting his cards or keeps folding at the right time. And always somebody comes up with the remark of "Cheater". Though some times as a joke, secretly we all mean it a bit, but what makes a cheater a real cheater? How does one succeed in being a good cheat? I think there are three category's of cheaters. Let's go through them. First I will start of with the "Fun Cheater"
Second we have the "Conscience Cheater" And last but not least we have the "Evil Cheater"
I like to consider myself as a "Conscience
Cheater". As I have treated some other cheaters with tar and feathers, but I
could not bare too "steal" someone's money by a false deal or shuffle. Sreen Bad Beats Anyone who has played poker for any amount of time knows EXACTLY what a bad beat is. Let me clear up what a bad beat really is. I'm sorry but a bad beat isn't a guy drawing to a flush when he has the pot odds to do so, that's called +EV play to draw. A bad beat is when he can catch 5 outs or less in the deck to take the pot, from you. Shit happens, how else would I be paying my bills? If everyone played correct poker all the time there would be absolutely no way to beat the game, it's impossible. The famous 1 to 5 outers are what I'm always bitching about to some people. However, I seriously sometimes have to bite my lip not to say anything to the donkey that just hit a miracle river on me for a pot. The worst thing any good player can do is tell a bad player how bad he is. In the past I have fallen victim to this myself but if you take anything away from this article, have it be this concept. I'll say it again, after taking a bad beat DON'T tell the player how horrid he plays or how shitty he plays(whatever terms you want to use), just don't do it. Bite your lip if that's what it takes. Force a smile and say NICE HAND, anything to encourage drawing without pot odds and other bad plays. If you have ever read the book The Theory of Poker by David Sklansky, then you know the concept of the Theorem of Poker, It states in short that if you would play your hand exactly the same as if you knew your opponents exact hole cards then you profit, if you would play it differently then your opponent profits. It goes on to talk about how you make money when your opponents make mistakes. Example: You have JJ in CO it is folded to you and you raise, bb calls the raise so you go to the flop HU, the flop comes 2c6d9h rainbow, the bb checks you beat bb calls, turn is a 4s no back door draw comes in total ragged off suited board great board for you, bb checks you bet bb calls. River card is a 7 bb now donks out? Where are you in this hand? You only get 3 bet by hands that beat you and this player would probably fold 40% the time and call 60% of the time with bettor and worse hands, I don't see a raise as the best play here though sometimes it might be correct against a different opponent but this one seems not to make this play without a hand that beats you… lets assume you call (we can debate raising and calling in my blog if you'd like) and he shows 77… 2 outed on the bloody river, at this point you want to slap the player, but you refrain like we talked about because this: You got 2 bets in PF when you were about an 80/20 favourite over your opponent. On the flop you become about a 88/12 favourite to win. And on the Turn you are a 95/5 favourite to win. You had this guy commit 1bb PF, 0.5bb on the flop, 1bb on the turn, so you got 2.5bb out of this guy with an almost lock hand when he had no odds to play, plus the SB is dead money in the pot so you have 3bb + 1bb when he misses and calls going to the river so 4bb with a 95.5% chance to take it down, the 4.5% of the time he makes a miracle hand you lose 1bb when behind!!! Sure you loose the pot but do you see why you should be happy? You only paid 1bb when you were beat badly, he pair 2.5bb when he was beat badly… which would you rather have? Sure he takes the pot from you this one time but damn did you make it very incorrect for him to try for it. This is why some people say celebrate your bad beats, because if you don't say anything to that player other then nice hand, he is guaranteed to make the same mistake again and again. If he thinks his play was justified when there was no way in hell it was then that's great!!! If you'd like to see some bad beats I have been dealt and some I have dished out then check out my blog post, because I have some hand histories for you.
Omaha Okay, for my first article (and hopefully not my last) I'm going to talk about Omaha poker. In Texas hold em it maybe about playing your opponent, in Omaha, it's a lot different. Omaha is about knowing the combinations of cards, the percentages of making your hand, and when your hand is going to hold up. It can mainly be summed up in three facts on Omaha. 1. Know the game you are playing Seriously this actually matters;
there are many variations of the game. It affects how you pick your hands
and how to approach each hand. E. Fifth is Limit Omaha hilo, which is the same as the last one except its limit, so you can play a little looser here. F. Sixth is pot-limit Omaha hilo which is the same at the last two but the max bet is the size of the pot. Once again, this becomes no-limit real fast. 2. Betting is key Yep betting is very much the key, in fact, it is what makes or breaks you in a hand. In Omaha slow playing isn't the best idea in the world unless you have a full house or better (and your full house better be good). Like if you make a straight on the turn, you don't want your opponent to make a flush on the river. A. In any no-limit or pot-limit Omaha game
(whether it's just regular Omaha or hilo), if I have the nuts, I'm betting
all-in or just betting very high, the pot in pot-limit. B. In limit games, sometimes the best thing to do is bet a drawing hand that is halfway descent, such as a flush draw or a low draw. But remember that people other than you are going to be playing very loose. 3. Know when enough is enough Sure, sometimes chasing pays off, but in no-limit, sometimes chasing things like a straight is not a good idea. I'm going to talk about each drawing hand and how to play them. It is also for only no-limit and pot-limit games. A. Full house draw- This is either you have trips and you need the board to pair or maybe you have two pair and you need one of you cards in your hand needs to be paired. This is a reasonable drawing hand that has great rewards if hit. If you can, you should try to get in cheap to see the river or turn card. If you can't, this is a hand you can muck with ease. B. Flush draw- This one a lot of people cling to, it is a good hand, but some people don't even have the nut flush draw and are chasing, which can be incredibly stupid. A pretty good drawing hand, play it if you can for cheap, not a good hand to go all in with, but sometimes it works. C. Gut-Shot Straight draw- Sucks, plain and simple unless you have position and everyone checks around to you and you can check should you play it. D. Open Ended Straight draw- Better then the gut-shot, but still not that great. Play it if it's very cheap or free. E. Low draw - only play this if you have the nut low or a really good low draw. This of course really depends on how far in the tournament you are. Like a lot of people play looser in the beginning and always seem to have the best low possible. Later on, people tighten up and don't make great hands like this.
1) How did you first get into
chips? 2) Does poker play a big part in
your life? 3) Do you perform chip tricks at the Poker
Table? Why? What's the reaction you get from other players? 4) Have you ever met or plan on
meeting up with anyone who shares a common interest with you in cards or chips?
5) What chip trick took you the
longest to learn? 6) What was the easiest chip trick for you to
learn? 7) Do you carry chips around with
you? Where do you practice chip tricks? 8) Do you have a set routine for practicing
tricks? 9) What are you favourite chips
(both for flourishing, and just for collection purposes)? 10) Are there any other chip
flourishers floating around the internet that are worth mentioning?
11) I heard you attracted the interest of
De´vo. Want to tell us about that? 12) Recently you have been
playing around with Cards, why did you decide to expand your repertoire?
13) How is the flourishing going?
Making progress? 14) Collecting cards is another
hobby of yours. How many decks do you have? What are some of your favourites?
15) Aside from chips and cards what else do you
do with your free time? 16) What advice do you have for someone
interested in getting into chips? 17) Is there anything you would
like to say to the 21ace community?
Something I enjoy doing is setting challenges for myself (ie. how to cull and stack 8 cards in four shuffles, develop a grip from which I can perform all my false deals from that one grip, visibly vanish an object and many much more complex challenges). One such challenge involved a triumph handling where you would legitimately shuffle the cards into one another, face up and face down, in other words, you could spread the deck to reveal they were genuinely mixed. Ideally, the spectator could shuffle them face up into face down. I have since come up with I believe, ten or eleven methods of doing so, but an early one in particular really appealed to me. What appealed to me about this handling is not that the overall technique is so great, but rather the elegance of the handling as a whole, mostly due to the fact that in essence it requires no sleights at all. I later discovered by reading a Marlo publication that a similar method was created long ago called "Cheek to Cheek" by Grant. Now, I've never studied this method so I'm not sure of the precise subtleties, but I would surmise that the handling is similar to my own. However, since I developed my handling independently I feel entitled to share it with you now. Later, I'll offer two follow-up articles to this one where I describe; what is perhaps a more spectacular effect that employs a similar handling, as well as an article describing how to use this particular effect in a routine. Method: Now you begin by having a card selected from the top half of the deck (I simply spread the cards in my hands as it makes for a very direct, clear and fair selection). Table the deck immediately. The spectator looks at the card and memorizes it, shows it to the other spectators (signs it if you like). Now, pick up roughly three quarters of the deck, leaving the other quarter tabled and ask the spectator to return their card to the centre of the deck. (It could be a good idea to make a point of using that word "centre" even though they are returning it to a point closer to the bottom, simply for the psychological subtlety not apparently planting the card at a particular position in the deck.) You want to pick up three quarters of the deck because you want the card located roughly halfway down in the bottom half of the deck as it makes it look better later when spreading. Dribble the three quarters of the deck you have in your hand onto the tabled packet with the selected card on top and ask the spectator to square the packet, this is extremely fair, much more so than you will typically get from any magician and really doesn't leave the possibility open for manipulation or control. Once the spectator has squared the deck you can go into some patter if you like. I'm not going to make suggestions on triumph patter, there are lots of ideas out there, but come up with a good presentation prior to performing this trick, as this handling in particular allows you to forget about the sleights and focus entirely on presentation. Whatever patter you decide, cut the deck at the point where the ordinary cards meet the double backed cards (if you wish you could bend the two halves slightly prior to the performance, or crimp one card, or just riffle up the back of the deck and peek to find the correct location, it doesn't really matter). Take the ordinary cards, turn them face up and spread them on the table with one hand, while spreading the face down cards with the other hand, demonstrating that they are in fact all face up and face down. Then perform a tight dovetail shuffle and riffle the cards together. Start pushing the packets together, and then, in an apparent attempt to be fair, ask an audience member to push the cards together and square up the deck. (Basically what you are doing here is getting almost the same impact as having the spectator shuffle the cards together himself, without the risk of exposing the double backed cards, it also makes the whole process seem very fair and gets the spectator involved). Again, if you want, you can patter at this point, personally I simply say something like "for those who doubt the cards have actually been mixed…" and proceed to spread the deck, showing they are in fact well mixed, face up and face down. Either way, that is what you want to do (spread them to show they are genuinely mixed). Of course, the work was done from the time the spectator returned his or her card to the double backed portion of the deck so you can relax completely. Next is the big patter section as you build up the trick, and, at the same time, the critical moment. You are going to sweep up the spread as you would bringing the cards together to square them up, but in this sweeping up motion, just at the end, you're going to turn the deck over. (A quick note here, due to the fact that some people might notice this action (it should really be very casual so it shouldn't be a big deal), it helps if you let one of the ordinary cards fall first when you riffled the packets together, so that no matter which way you turned the deck the audience would legitimately see the back of a card rather than be confronted with a back when it should be a face). The key here is misdirection, because, while you're performing the action openly, and there's nothing wrong with doing so, ideally, you really don't want anyone to notice what you did. The way to go about this is to start into your patter and as you start to sweep up the spread and as you near the end, look up at them and away from the cards, turning the deck over as a part of the sweeping motion without looking at it. At this point you build up to the effect, make it seem magical, and then spread, revealing that the selection is the only face up card in the deck. The appeal of this handling is really an almost total lack of worry; everything is so fair and so convincing. It is free of sleights and you can focus entirely on presentation. My only worry is this, that at the end, you do have a mixed deck where half the cards are odd backed. For that reason, I recommend you use this as a closer. I'd also recommend you use this effect as a part of a larger routine, for two reasons. First, because it will make the closer more acceptable, people won't be begging you as much to perform something else. Second, because it provides a good convincer that everything is on the up and up as John Scarne would say. Tips for improvement: If you really wanted to get ambitious, you could force the original card, then, during the period where everyone is reacting, switch out the gimmicked deck for a real deck in order to make everything fully examinable.
Ace Production tutorial The following production can be linked after any
false cut. Just play around with different cuts to see which one gets u into the
best starting position.
A short clip of the display can be seen at: http://media.putfile.com/ace-display Fattyonadiet Members welcome Without members a forum would be pretty boring. Without new members a forum would not improve thus adding to its boringness. So this is just the little piece of the newsletter that allows us, the members of 21ace, to extend a heart felt welcome to all those that have joined the 21ace community this month.
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