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Drey
Straight Flush
Joined: 06 Feb 2005
Posts: 696
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 Gift of Secrets! Part 2 - Dealing |
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The following information will all center around false dealing in various forms, again, it builds off previous texts and deeper understanding that you may or may not possess, thus some clarification and enlightenment may be required. It comes as some point form notes which I haven't expanded upon or supplemented with photographs, but a thorough examination will yield almost an infinity of ideas. Reading "Inquisition of Shuffling and Dealing" as well as "Seconds, Centers and Bottoms" would be particularly effective for those seeking a thorough foundation.
Introduction
Grips
o Real Mechanic’s grip (forefinger along the top of the deck not in the corner, thorough description in "Birth of Card Magic")
o Master’s grip
o Erdnase grip (include variants: fingers extended, curled wrapped around the deck, fingers curled under the deck, more or less cover along the front end of the deck, gripped vs. resting in the hand)
o Count’s New Erdnase grip (inward force with the middle finger rather than diagonal force towards the base of the thumb)
o Straddle grip (and variations)
o Shifted grip (and variations)
o SF grip
o Standard grip/Full grip (low and high)
o Key grip
o Count’s grip
o Modified Master’s grip
o Box grip
o Side grip
o Good deal grip
o High mechanic’s grip (forefinger in the upper corner)
o Missing finger grips
o Nail grips (grips where fingers are curled under the deck so that the bottom cards slide along the nails and thus encounter less resistance)
o Flexible grip (loose cross between Erdnase and shifted allowing immediate change)
o Grip between pinky at lower right corner and thumb at upper left corner
o No grip
o Forte Deep Grip (see GPS)
o Roberto Giobbi's dealing grip
Take Finger
o Forefinger
o Middle finger
o Ring finger
o Pinky
o One-handed options
Take Direction
o Forward
o Backward
o Side (other side as well in the case of rare one-handed deals)
o Diagonal forward
o Diagonal backward
Visual display
Push-off
- Angled Pivot
- Full Side
- Forward
- Forward Angled
- Diagonal Back Square
- Diagonal Forward Square
- Left Pivot
Strike
One-handed options
Timing
Left thumb tip is the indicator of the thumb
Solutions to the lack of thumb lift problem
- Lift after the pullback (Wesley James)
- Don’t lift at all
- Forward motion apparently assisting in pitching the card
- Don’t move the thumb at all
- Apparent lift (roll the thumb so it apparently lifts but in fact doesn’t, this is my preferred method, which I believe is the most accurate and deceptive)
- Lift
- - Wesley James method of using your left fingers to draw back the top card while lifting the thumb to move back
- - Lifting the thumb with the card
- - Examine the Scarne method (essentially the Wesley James method)
- - Using fingers left fingers at the top or bottom of the deck to pull the card back and lift the thumb
- - Use the right thumb to push the card back as it performs the take
The Take
Departure from the standard procedures
Dealing down, the sail and the toss
Finger, hand/wrist, and arm movement
The importance of striking the top card with your thumb and of “taking” the card you push off
Positive and negative illusion
Economy of motion (direction)
Collective velocity
- You want as much moving as possible
- You want to move as little as possible, the idea is to clear the card from the deck as quickly as possible, but this means that each hand only needs to move perhaps half the width of the card.
- By dipping the hands at the same time as you do this you ad a vertical element which decreases the distance as well.
Longest possible retention of vision (show the card for as long as possible and give the shortest possible obstruction of vision) (also, you want to perform a vision transfer, showing half of the object, then changing to another half that has already been switched)
Consistent motion
Impossible actions (performing actions that would apparently be impossible with a false deal strengthens the illusion (such as lifting the card upwards), likewise, performing an action that would be impossible for the top card destroys the illusion (for example dropping the bottom card before it leaves the deck))
Advantages of a slightly backwards take in many cases
Grip Stability
Grip Naturalness
“Nothing good ever came easy”
Silhouette or flash on tops and eliminating it, also learning to eliminate it for the top card pull pack
o Covering the silhouette with the fingers by concealing the borders
Continuous rather than broken motion on the take as a means of expediency and naturalness (for example, don’t go sideways then forwards, you go diagonally)
When to open the brief and when to close it
Sound
o The importance of a level hand
Dealing with dry hands and sweaty hands
Dealing with old decks and new decks
Consider cover on bottom deal with middle finger
Practicing the dealing rhythm, deal to a metronome
Advantages of a broken dealing rhythm
Vernon mentions giving as much attention to the take as to the grip
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| Fri Aug 17, 2007 3:34 pm |
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Drey
Straight Flush
Joined: 06 Feb 2005
Posts: 696
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Again, broken notes, but worth glenning from, full notes would simply take too much time and space, for specifics, hone in on an area and ask a question.
The Second Deal
Treatise on the Second Deal
- Examine the illusion of the second deal, what illusion is intended and how to facilitate that illusion
- Brief size, how it is important for a particular illusion and how it goes to waste
- Difference between a strike and a take
- Examine Vernon’s thoughts from “Revelations” where he mentions dealing in a circle
- Use discard culling and false shuffles with a second deal instead of culling, stacking etc.
- Thoughts of masters (Marlo, Scarne, Charlie Miller, Walter Irving Scott, Wesley James, Dai Vernon, Steve Forte)
Tips on switching from a false deal to a real deal and back, particularly push-off seconds
Scarne
- Seconds based on “The Sting” handling (Slydini Seconds)
- Bottoms, combining the grip and taking into account expose performance
Count’s Grip Other Ideas
- Cover
- - Use right forefinger to cover the cards coming from the bottom when viewed from the left side
Seconds
o Left Pivot
o Top Glide
o Push-off
o Stud
Doubles
o Push-off
o Stud
Bottoms
o Push-off
o Stud
Double Bottoms
o Glide
o Buckle
Greeks
o Push-off
o Buckle
o Stud
Centers
o Jogged cards method & Center deal from multiple locations
o Glide method
o Under the Deck Cop
o Lift method
Thirds, fourths and fifths
Multiple Minus Bottoms
Master’s Grip (Marlo methods with Count’s refinements)
- Marlo Strike Seconds
- Marlo Push-off Seconds
- Marlo Strike Bottoms
- Marlo Push-off Bottoms
- Count’s approach and analysis
No Touch Theory Second deals
More of Less the Bottom Deal
Treatise on the bottom deal
Re-Examination of Strike Seconds method 1 variation 1 and performing bottoms accordingly
In turn bottoms (same basic method as previous, but using an angled push-off (so push-off seconds, the idea is that you will also pull out the bottoms at an angle, allowing you to avoid moving your middle finger and thus avoid trademark finger flare, the action is actually to twist the card out at the back, as both wrists pivot inwards and then to toss the card to the player in question)
Push-off Bottom get ready idea – multiple get ready, prepare all the cards for false dealing at once in advance in order to avoid knuckle flash
Guy Hollingworth Method and subtleties
- Dealing bottoms
- Dealing seconds
- Dealing seconds and bottoms the same
- Dealing Doubles
- Dealing Greeks
- Dealing Centers
- Dealing One-handed (no Greeks or centers)
Flip dealing (one-handed)
- Flip seconds
- Flip doubles
LePaul automatic seconds
- Guy Hollingworth idea
- One-handed automatic seconds (The Count’s idea)
D’Amico One-Handed Dealing
- Center dealing
- Bottom dealing
- Count’s handling & psychological advantages
- Marlo’s handling of the D’Amico one handed deal
More double dealing and one handed double dealing concepts
Greek Dealing
- Andrew Wimhurst’s Greek deal (Marlo concept)
- Re-examine methods from “Inquisition of Shuffling and Dealing”
Erdnase, thoughts, ideas, cover, considerations, examinations, look at the original manuscript, Count’s approach and refinements
The Center Deal
Treatise on the center deal
- Theory
- Four ways to access the cards: a break, buckle, jog, or pivot
- Four ways of controlling location: a break, jog, step or crimp
- The thing that makes the center deal more difficult than the Greek deal is that you don’t know where the cards are so you must maintain the location throughout the dealing action
Center Deal (New Methods and thoughts following poor execution in the previous book)
- Forward middle finger push-off from step with shifted grip
- Jogged Card dealing: Straddle grip, Erdnase Grip, Master’s grip
- Re-examining the “V” Style center deal (hold break with forefinger and only open the break under cover of the right hand as you go to perform the take)
- Re-examine Drawbridge Center deals (holding break with the forefinger, pulling down with the middle finger and possibly performing a push-off with the middle finger for a cleaner take) (Alternatively, don’t open the break at all, simply buckle the bottom half to perform a push-off)
- Half Deck Buckle (push-off and strike)
- Andrew Wimhurst Deal
- Rear step with pinky push-off (same can be applied to Greeks)
- Pivot strike centers (hold a break with the forefinger, then pivot the top half over slightly to perform a strike center without opening the break)
- New Push-off Center (pivot the top half of the deck out at an angle then apply pressure from below on the bottom card with the last three fingers, thus retaining the bottom card of the top packet as you pull back the top half (Examine with all push-off deals to avoid knuckle flash)
- Namtla Center deal (“Namtla” is “Altman” spelled backwards, because the deal uses the concept of an Altman break to determine the correct location, along with a top half pivot. It means the deck is regularly totally square, there is no visible break except from behind, which is covered by your body, the deal seems totally natural, you never open a break to deal and it’s quite easy.) (Also include mention of Count’s grip center deals using an Altman break).
Dealing top centers as opposed to bottom centers (negative centers)
Discuss dealing thirds, fourths, & fifths (discuss using a break and a pinky count to flexibly and quickly make the shift, also examine Marlo’s unit control)
“A Good Deal”
- Dealing thirds, fourths, & fifths
- Dealing from the top instead of bottom
Double Center Dealing Theory
Shifted Grip (Count’s Preferred Deal) (New details and subtleties that make it The Count’s favorite)
- Using ring finger take
- Using forefinger and middle finger at the front of the deck for cover and to take the card in the upper left corner
- Dealing Greeks using covered step
- Dealing Centers using covered step
- Benzais Cop and Snap deal
- Different approach seconds for consistency (consider gliding the top card back using the thumb)
- Using the same approach for 3rds, 4ths, 5ths etc.
- Using the same approach for double dealing
- Dealing the punch in the very upper left corner
- Dealing the punch by feeling the next card in the normal location, but feeling it with the right hand thumb, combining this with the bottom feel method as well
Count’s Weird Grip
- A new approach based on the Count’s grip and combining some features of the no touch theory dealing, it involves holding the deck in almost a mechanic’s grip with the forefinger at the upper right corner and the thumb running up along the left side to the corner. The right hand performs the take though much as it would for the Count’s grip, in the upper left corner rather than the upper right, allowing for hand cover. The left wrist rotates clockwise with each dealing action in order to offer further cover, especially of the thumb movement. Naturally, the thumb must move out of the way in order to successfully complete the deal and this allows the thumb to shift either the top card (allowing for a second deal) or even the top half of the deck (allowing for a center deal). Unlike the Count’s grip, hangers aren’t such a problem due to the controlled offered by the left forefinger. The other major disparity is that cards are take out from the deck at an angle to the right so the bottoms don’t interfere with the left forefinger grip. This sets you up quite effectively for a sail. The take is much the same as that of Walter Scott’s second deal.)
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| Fri Aug 17, 2007 3:43 pm |
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Drey
Straight Flush
Joined: 06 Feb 2005
Posts: 696
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Treatise and systems on using false deals
- Marked cards with the second deal
- Peeking second deal and bottom deal as well as peeking during the deal
- Edge mark dealing and Walter Scott’s Key grip
- Count’s concept of the build, using 2nds, 3rds, 4ths and 5ths to avoid the trademark problem of using a second deal to deliver the winning hand, namely, you could be holding back the top card and have to deal off the second card which also turns out to be a card you want, this way, you determine (either by using something like Walter Scott’s system, or by creating a sufficient brief that you’re able to obtain the value not only of the top card, but of the card after it using properly marked cards, or by peeking ahead, or by some system of feel) the value of later cards and begin 3rds dealing and so on, allowing the cards you want to collect on the top of the deck, the advantage being that of course you can deal fairly to yourself and get quite a good hand from a shuffled deck
- Combining bottom dealing with all of this
Punch dealing
Anytime dealing (Punch deal replacement, dealing centers from different parts of the deck)
- Guy Hollingworth concept of using crimps in the back right corner and feeling with the pinky (I don’t like this much), alternative is Count’s idea of using crimps in back left corner and employing an Altman break for each of the dealing points
- Initial ideas using a crimp or corner short in upper left corner with shifted grip step deal, the thumb riffles down to find the location, steps the deck at an angle and deals the card, then repeats (examine this same concept using forefinger break methods in the upper right corner)
- Alternatively, use wide or long cards and a more traditional grip, for example, long cards, feel with the forefinger in the upper right corner and perform any appropriate deals, or wide cards, feel down with fingers on the side of the deck, open the deck slightly to perform a push-out and deal accordingly
- Use edge marked cards, likely with the key grip, or the Count’s reverse key grip, or a slightly modified version of the Shifted grip combined with the key grip to make the feat possible
Feeding the Deal “The Hungry Deal” (Full clip using Count’s grip deal (possibly more like a master’s palm instead of full clip))
Steal deal (double deal and steal off the bottom card)
One-handed dealing concepts
Sleightless false dealing
Fan Deal
Fan self deal
The New Deal, based on the concept of how a lay person would deal
The Convincing Deal based on the concept that most false deals, while they are invisible do not convince the audience that the top card has been dealt fairly
- Snap deal to cover a false deal
- The Dealing control
- Change concept (Based on a top change, you deal off the top card fairly, then, during the sail, you switch it for the second card, or bottom card etc.)
Convincing One-handed deals
Convincing Tabled Deals
Dealing from the Shoe
The sail and combining it with various deals
The advantage of the true cigar bottom deal when it applies to center deals and opening the break, particularly the “V” style from the Erdnase grip. Namely, the advantage of reaching for the card only on the false deal, and doing so with the ring finger so it is more deceptive.
Structural Notes
The second deal is the deal closest to the top, thus it has an inherent edge in facility over all the other deals. By this we mean, because it varies the least it has the fewest tip offs.
Questions of the second deal:
- How to access the second card
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Tip offs of the second deal:
- Back flash on the top card
- Dead thumb vs. thumb lift
- Card coming off the deck from a different point
- Hangers
- Sound
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How to deal with the back flash
How to deal with the dead thumb
How to deal with the card coming off the deck from a different point
How to deal with hangers
How to deal with the sound
The bottom deal is the most accessible false deal, but the distance, fingers and resistance cause problems for many people
Questions of the bottom deal:
- How to access the bottom card
- How to make reaching under the deck natural
- How to deal with the resistance
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Tip offs of the bottom deal:
- Knuckle flash
- Finger flare
- Distance between the cards
- Back flash on the top card
- Dead thumb vs. thumb lift
- Sound
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How to deal with the knuckle flash
- Perform a strike rather than a push off
- Do a scissor like angular push-off
- Perform an advance get ready
- Perform the push off with concealed fingers behind the covering fingers
- Perform the push off action every time
How to deal with the finger flare
- Keep your fingers very low on the deck
- Keep your fingers open the whole time
- Open your fingers on each deal
- Leave a slight gap between the side of the deck and your fingers and use them as a ramp
How to deal with the distance between cards
How to deal with the back flash
How to deal with the dead thumb
How to deal with the sound
I'll leave it at that for now and delve in where issues arise, or maybe pull a series of detailed and more detailed notes later. The structure and basic direction should help those who are interested.
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| Fri Aug 17, 2007 3:52 pm |
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